Agropur’s Master Cheesemakers Bring Passion, Artistic Skill to Their Craft

When connoisseurs seek out the world’s finest cheeses, they know the first step is to look for a “Proudly Wisconsin Cheese” label.

In Wisconsin, cheese is more than a product – it’s an important part of the state’s heritage. Its cheesemakers create with pride and recognize their responsibility to a sterling reputation built across generations.  While that ethic is strong throughout America’s Dairyland, there are still a select few Wisconsin cheesemakers whose skills and knowledge stand above the rest.

The Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® certification recognizes the state’s very best, and before cheesemakers receive the title, they need to demonstrate they’re worthy. It’s a prestigious program that provides mentorship and a rigorous course of study to the state’s most dedicated cheesemakers. Agropur, which crafts its cheeses with utmost dedication to quality, is proud to have four Wisconsin Master Cheesemakers guiding its processes.

“It’s a marriage of science and art,” said Agropur’s Roger Krohn, a Master and third-generation cheesemaker. “The science starts with really good, high-quality milk and it involves the ingredient choices that you make. But there’s such as vast array of choices, and that’s where the art of it comes in.”

Krohn, cheese technical manager at Agropur’s Luxemburg, WI facility, said mechanization has taken some of the heavy lifting out of the process, but it hasn’t impacted the imaginative component.

“Computers can only do what you tell them to do,” he said.

Krohn said he continues to learn and improve after more than 40 years of cheesemaking. He praised the Master program for offering cheesemakers access to the best and latest science from Wisconsin’s Center for Dairy Research as well as plenty of creative expertise to draw upon.

Wisconsin is the only place outside of Europe to offer such a certification. Upon graduation, participants are granted the ability to use the Master’s Mark, a logo that provides customers with assurance they’re about to savor the finest Wisconsin has to offer.

The artistic side of the cheesemaking marriage drives Agropur’s Tom Blauert, who has Master certifications in traditional and low-fat mozzarella. Like other art forms, cheesemaking requires thought, precision and intention to capture the senses of its consumers.

“There’s something about using your hands to create,” said Blauert, who serves as cheese technical manager at Agropur’s Little Chute, WI plant. “Some do it with wood and some do it with metal. Cheesemaking just made sense to me and I’ve taken incredible enjoyment out of making this product.”

Many arrive to the craft by following in the footsteps of their fathers and grandfathers. Blauert reached the pinnacle of his profession without the pedigree. It started simply enough: he was looking for a new job opportunity and learned that a small dairy had an opening. 

Blauert never anticipated he’d find his life’s passion. He’s since spent more than 40 years in the business and earned his Master certification in 2000.

Experience is the first prerequisite for those hoping to become a master.

Eligibility for the Master Cheesemaker program is limited to those who are currently working in a Wisconsin plant and have held a Wisconsin cheesemaker’s license for at least 10 years. It’s a three-year program, and over that time, participants must regularly submit samples of their cheeses for grading.

Pat Doell, a Master Cheesemaker and production supervisor at Agropur’s Luxemburg facility, said the program provided him with a deeper understanding of the fine points of the craft. He arrived at his profession in the more traditional way. The fourth-generation cheesemaker – and Krohn’s nephew -- derives pride from carrying on his family’s legacy and satisfaction from knowing his customers are getting a superior product.

Doell received Master’s certifications in mozzarella and provolone. Always driven to improve, he began coursework soon after reaching his 10th anniversary.

“For me, it was the next step,” he said.

He said the expertise of the teaching staff, depth of material and hands-on guidance brought his skills to a new level. The challenge added to the pride of being recognized as a Master.

“You definitely have to be committed,” Doell said.  “You can’t take it lightly.”

The program was created in partnership by the Center for Dairy Research, UW-Extension and the Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin. They sought to build additional value for Wisconsin-made cheeses and equip cheesemakers with knowledge and skills to stay competitive in national and international marketplaces.

Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin describes the program as “basically a Ph.D. in cheese.” After certification, the program requires graduates to continue their education to retain the Master’s Mark. Masters take further courses and submit samples to demonstrate they continue to put forth the quality it represents.

“It was a great experience and I learned a lot,” said Agropur’s Dan Stearns, also a first-generation cheesemaker.  “It was an in-depth experience and I was able to get a better understanding of the dos and don’ts and whys and why nots.”

Stearns, like Blauert, arrived at his passion by a stroke of good fortune and worked his way up from the bottom. Now the cheese technical manager at Agropur’s Weyauwega, WI facility, he tried his hand at several professions before discovering cheesemaking.

Stearns said the certification is more than a title.

“As a master cheesemaker, you develop relationships throughout the industry,” Stearns said. “We’re fellow cheesemakers, but we’re also really good friends. It’s a really big family.”

Agropur’s masters say only the finest lines separate good cheeses from exceptional examples. Excelling at cheesemaking goes far beyond following recipes: It takes trial, error, curiosity and mentorship.

They say a keen sense of taste is crucial to discerning those ever-slight differences.

Blauert, for example, isn’t a coffee drinker. Yet he’ll have a cup or two every year to sharpen his reception of bitter flavors.

Agropur’s masters say the Master’s honor also carries responsibility.

Blauert, a 40-year veteran of the craft, said one of his late-career goals is to pass on as much of his knowledge as he can to the generation of cheesemakers behind him. Decades of work haven’t dulled his passion.

The same holds true for Krohn. He said his skills give him the opportunity to make a positive impact on the world.

“There’s not a lot that all humans have in common,” Krohn said, “but one thing we all have in common is the love of eating. When I go to a restaurant and I see families enjoying themselves, I like to think that I played a small part of that.”