Agropur’s Charlie Henn earns Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker certification

Few places are known by their products quite like Wisconsin and its delicious, quality cheese. In keeping with its strong global reputation, Wisconsin is also one of the few places in the world that recognizes the expertise of its top cheesemakers.

Wisconsin’s Master Cheesemakers® are the best of the best. Another one of Agropur’s dedicated cheesemakers has achieved that lofty designation.

Charlie Henn, Cheddar Production Supervisor for Agropur’s Weyauwega, WI, facility, said his recently earned Master Cheesemaker certification is a point of pride that recognizes learning and growth throughout his career.

“I’ve been working at this for a long time,” Henn said. “I’ve been making cheese for more than 20 years and every step of the way helped me get here. It’s all come together to where I’m at now and it’s hard to take it all in.”

Cheesemakers must hold their licenses for at least 10 years to first become eligible for participation.  The prestigious program provides mentorship and includes a rigorous course of study that’s been described as a “Ph.D. in cheese.”

“There was a lot of technical learning, going all the way down to the microscopic level,” Henn said.

Wisconsin is the only place outside of Europe to offer a Master Cheesemaker certification. It’s a three-year program, and over that time, participants must regularly submit cheese samples for grading.

Upon graduation, participants are granted the ability to use the Master’s Mark, a logo that provides customers with assurance they’re about to taste some of Wisconsin’s very best.

It’s a certification that speaks to diligence as well as ability, said Chris Pennings, Agropur’s Weyauwega plant manager.

“Charlie is a skilled and committed cheesemaker,” he said. “It takes time and dedication to hone the craft and becoming a Master Cheesemaker recognizes that.”

Cheesemaking wasn’t a lifelong aspiration for the newly minted master.

Henn grew up on a dairy farm and went to college with plans to become a veterinarian. His career in cheesemaking began by a turn of chance. He sought a work-study job as a driver for his university’s dairy pilot plant. With a speeding ticket on his record, they gave him a job on the plant floor instead.

It was there that Henn ultimately found his calling.

In college, he made cheese and ice cream for the university’s dining halls. After graduation, he spent about 10 years making ricotta and mascarpone cheeses at another company before joining the Agropur team.

Henn said the change in scenery required him to start over, though he moved through the ranks quickly.

He praised Agropur’s support as he reacclimated to cheddar production, became skilled in the cheese and worked toward his Master certification in cheddar.

“I always tell people that the worst part of working here is getting across the train tracks,” Henn said with a chuckle. “You know you’re in a great place when your biggest complaint about work doesn’t have anything to do with work.”

Agropur’s Weyauwega facility has a strong reputation for the high quality of its cheddar cheeses. The team consistently earns honors at US and World Cheese Championships.

Henn’s recognition as a Master only strengthens Weyauwega’s reputation, Pennings said.

“I think it helps solidify us as one of the best cheddar manufacturers in the country,” Pennings said. “We have a rich past and he will help carry our tradition into the future.”  

While honored to be called a Master, Henn suspects the best is still ahead.

He figures he has another 20 years of cheesemaking ahead of him. He looks forward to sharing his skill and experience with co-workers at all levels to ensure Weyauwega is producing the best cheddar cheese possible.

“The more that your cheesemakers know, the better your cheese is going to be,” Henn said. “I want everyone to know what we do and why we do it. I want everyone working together and I want to continue winning awards for our cheese.”